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Vol.06  Issue 10/03, 23.10.2006

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Text : SIL. Photos : Copyright © 2006, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. All photos taken at SIL 2006, Paris

 

 

Lingerie Trends F/W 2006

Introduced at Salon International de la Lingerie, Paris, 02.- 05. February 2006

 

 

 

Hanro

Hanro

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ritratti

Ritratti

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cadolle

Cadolle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Alba

Alba

 

 

When evoking current trends, talking in terms of models and products falls short of the mark. The list would be endless, since fashion's current requirements extend to almost anything and everything. More importantly, any list would overlook the key issue of the day: a constant quest to transcend the tangible side of a design to reach its very essence, its soul; this desire to go beyond a simple item of clothing to create a style and complicity.
We're always hearing about the art of living, adding and increasing value, it might also be worth raising the issue of the "art of wearing", i.e. an attempt to enhance sensuality with a swathe of spiritual meaning.
In real terms, this means that the aim of lingerie - whether useful, frivolous, or both - is to tell and interpret a story. The story of its creator, but also, and more importantly, of the person who has chosen to wear it.
So, what's the story this season? The plot is undeniably chic, because chic sophistication is the precise embodiment of quality, detail, accessories and, by extension of an attitude which makes all the difference.
A strong source of inspiration, reflected to an ever greater extent by brands which have recognised the need to stand out from the crowd and offer consumers what they are looking for: above all a way of finding and expressing themselves.
Whether it's sporty comfort-oriented silhouettes or a sexy club look, sophisticated city chic or more young and urban styles, one element is common to all directions: a quest for that something extra: an abundance of quirky mixing and matching, enhanced with textiles or patterns - knits, weaves and velvet, checks and stripes, ribbons and laser-cutting, crochet and lace - a plethora of bows, ribbons, elaborate straps and jewels; the sure-fire appeal of hand-made or one-off pieces; plenty of colour subversion, borrowed from the street and ready-to-wear; a poetry of patina; a profusion of three-piece sets for must-have appeal and complicity - camisoles, cute cardigans, bed-jackets, etc.
Wit, romance, nostalgia, exoticism, contrasts, subversion and surprise... everything contributes to creating a variety of authentic - and comprehensive - styles in which we can feel good with and pleasure...and recognise our own worth.

Propulsion

Details create personality and individuality, hence their growing importance. The young fall for all that is marked and remarkable. Knits that caress, modal fabrics in many forms, supple pastels and ever-intoxicating greys. Men play a role reversal that is less ambiguous, more playful. The tank top is the overwhelming star! Colours taken from surfwear and the outdoor lifestyle of beach houses, with styles mixed to produce year-round wearability.

Giving centre stage to men. Its an undeniable fact: the range on offer for men has never been so varied and diverse, embodied by brands and an increasing number of designers, prepared to create full lines to suit all situations and circumstances. Mirroring ladieswear collections, the notion of pleasure has made tangible progress, through attention to detail, accessory effects, and an adoption of deliberately fashion-based moods and trends:
The sexy style flirts with black, microfibres and ultra-sensual cotton, somewhere between New York glam and a street look. Some styles even feature mini-diamante details, as seen on body-hugging T-shirts by Hom and Jolidon. Sport, particularly surfing, continues to gain ground: with predominantly unisex beachwear prints (flowers and flashy graphics) in the Björn Borg and Punto Blanco collections, elastic waistbands as accessories, omni-present tank-style T-shirts, urban graffiti or camouflage prints from DDP...
Also on the menu, the homewear version of the vintage trend for laid-back weekends around the house-tennis-striped dressing gowns from Hanro, checked pyjamas by Kiff Kiff, mix and match bathrobes and trousers by Christian Cane... A plethora of separates, T-shirts, knits and nightshirts created in a rich, even feminine palette. Another trend worth noting is an updated version of classic white from Fruit of The Loom which has enjoyed great success thanks to its ultra-comfortable seamless briefs and Stretch T-shirts... Finally, cotton in all its shapes and forms is present across the board.

Obsession Games

An abundance of fantasy is initiated by a young generation ready for the utmost in audacious design ! A desire to manifest new codes of seduction! All silhouettes are acceptable, provided they are comfortable, ergonomic and adaptable to suit the needs of everyone.

Where you can find all the fun and hard work that goes into the youth market, audacity in particular, a taste for mixing and matching with a sense of humour. First off, colours, where there is a radical break with traditional lingerie shades: colours have been given a more gritty feel, apricot, mauve, aqua green, dusky pink, - notably seen at Cosabella, DDP and Lohe -...
Next up, combinations with bold juxtapositions: for example pairing a microfibre and lace brassiere with striped cotton briefs as seen at No Romeo... the beachwear influence has also made an impact: with fresh floral motifs at DDP in particular...
A touch of street can also be found in various forms: modern homewear, including jacket and socks at Punto Blanco among others, kaki camouflage motifs at EDC by Esprit... and of course, the all-important three-piece set is coming into its own -Sonia Rykiel, EDC by Esprit, Punto Blanco, Cosabella - knitted shrugs and cute cardigans, essential for seductive homewear, little camisoles, nighties and vest tops... willing accomplices for bras and briefs. This sector embodies a trend for intimate apparel that is coming out of the dark and revealing itself to the light of day.

Vintage Urge

A world of refinement filled with restrained magic, all mixtures are acceptable provided that the final effect is graceful.
It is also a liberal interpretation of all eccentricities, anything goes provided it expresses a statement of luxury, the opulence of couture. The atmosphere is both a feeling of utter delicacy and an abundance of motifs inspired by eccentricity and glamour.

Demonstrating this taste for opulence for those who are rediscovering the most exclusive, couture-style refinement and a desire to transform daily life with a certain sense of the exceptional. This season is thus dominated by the extravagant, eccentric spirit of the Biba years: a wealth of colours and decorative elements, velvet and devoré velvet, satin and jewellery accessories, hand-finished effects...seen in particular at Jacalyn Benett, Jolidon, A Jour... motifs flirt with lace, designs are customized with a hint of luxury...
As for homewear, refined knit and weave combinations, liberty prints, mottled effects, ribbon fasteners and bolero lines are on a roll, especially at Kiff Kiff, NK Romance, Hanro...
More demure, perhaps, but equally rich and opulent: 18th Century wallpaper motifs, - traditional Toile de Jouy style at Börner or velvety pink stripes at Passionata - and a palette of good-enough-to-eat colours, ranging from biscuit to apricot at Taubert and Lady de Paris. Finally, glamour and graphics, black and white imposes itself with creative flair: an ultra-soft pairing of cashmere and weave at Christian Cane, velvet and hints of fur for a Japanese-style jacket at Louis Feraud, paper touch and Valenciennes lace create a stir at Morgan and Daniel Hechter, 3-piece sets with letter motifs and embroidery for a baby doll look at Hanro, the pure glamour of silk at NK Attitude...

Fascination

A young, fun freedom for a highly playful eroticism that parades sexiness without a shadow of shyness or vulgarity. All mixes are good, provided they are splendidly festive-somewhere between today’s Las Vegas and 50’s nightclubs. A haute-couture atmosphere with high contrasts!

The sexy spirit, eternally erotic but updated for an ultra contemporary look, with festive effects and no shortage of humour. A visual pleasure: a fantasy of black, sometimes fantastic, is the word of the day for chic corsets and bustiers at Jolidon and Barbarella herseif would feel right at home at "Lingerie precieuse" de Pascal Morabito. The element of surprise is also crucial: toying with the effects of ultra-graphic fabrics, gossamer tulle, lots of lacing, embroidered knits, frills, netting and lace, guipure lace and velvet at Arabesco, Daniel Hechter, Marie Jo, Anita, Arianne Lingerie...
Another current at the show, was a slightly grunge mood, spiced up with pinks, mauve and fuchsia... found in rich drapes at Argentovivo, ruffled at Valery, with fringe effects at Le Caprice de Marie and frayed with diamante at Leonisa...

 

More Trend Reports :
1101st GDS - Shoe Trends Fall/Winter 2006
101st GDS - Shoe ABC Fall/Winter 2006
CPD Women Trends Fall/Winter 2006
Pelz Trends Herbst/Winter 2006
ILM Bag Trends F/W 2006

To the Fashion Fair Calendar 2006
Links to Fair Organizers

 

 

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 Copyright © 2006, fashionfreak. All rights reserved.   ISSN 1619-5779