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Vol.09  Issue 08/07, 10.08.2009

Trends Womenswear F/W 2009

THE MOOD IS PRACTICAL

Collection Wolfgang Ley

Fashion reacts to social climates - so what does fashion for this autumn season look like?

As in other areas, people are searching for the familiar, the safe, and the reliable in fashion as well. Fashion makers accept the practical mood of their customers, who are looking for comfort, quality and modern simplicity in everything. That may sound boring, however, it definitely is not. More and more women and men are displaying fashion confidence and creating their own looks with interesting separates.

Meanwhile Standard, the stylistic freedom seen with "fashion sampling", along with the individual fantasy of the model groups ensure that in spite of the practicality, fashion fun will not drown in the wave of fear accompanying the crisis.

More than anything, the fashion for this autumn is a game with strong separates that can be combined to create various looks. Colour plays a regulatory and structuring role. Three colour schemes dominate the season:

anja gockel

annette röstel

Dark, monochromatic combinations in which deep black-blue shades play the leading role; graphic white or accent colours such as emerald green and pomegranate red are added.

Light stone shades in grey, brown or green nuances are also combined in a monochromatic manner. This colour approach has a soft, luxurious effect and is used primarily with knits, Jersey and soft flannels or suede.

In contrast to these two, vital multicolour ensembles appear, featuring new check prints that re-interpret traditional paragons. Stripes, folkloristic knit Jacquards and warmly coloured paisley prints take it a step further. Warm autumn colours with differentiated red nuances, brown and cognac tones, luminous gold and yellow-green hues are opulent in a tradition-steeped and natural manner. Familiar khaki and new green shades join the mix.

Stylistically, the casual feeling dominates that is so crucial to our current definition of modernity. This means that everything - even strictly sculptural forms or classic references - must be "broken" in a sporty manner. This is why we can't really speak of a "comeback" of the classic: Classic only appears in individual garments and is always set in a new context. The same applies to other style citations.

annette röstel

sandwich

The key elements of the season

The success of dresses continues with a hitherto unknown variety. Women have discovered the simplicity of the new dresses in combination with opaque pantyhose and boots. Dresses are knee-length or shorter - some purist-strict, some feminine-flowing or decoratively printed. They are always combinable in a myriad of ways, for example with hoodies, voluminous knit jackets, leather jackets, masculine coats or small, slender blazers.

Knits in many forms are among the season's essentials. Roll-neck sweaters are celebrating a Comeback in womenswear and menswear. They are considered classics yet seem extremely modern with their purist austerity. Relaxed coarsely knit sweaters and jackets stand for earthy craftsmanship and a new "luxury of stillness". Moreover, they can be combined with almost anything. Knit blazers and dresses supersede RTW forms with their casual appeal.

Casually interpreted forms also dominate the skirts, which are predominately knee-free. Very slender styles of Jersey or knit, leather skirts or those of denim and chequered or sporty flannel skirts are among the most popular separates.

alexandra schiess

Stills

In jackets as well, each garment must show character in order to have a chance this autumn. Richly equipped club blazers, biker jackets and fun little Spencer styles are among these. Leather blazers complement nicely once again. Long or short fur vests are among the special items that can be worn over jackets, dresses or sweaters.

Jeans - undoubtedly the most reliable fashion item - are absolutely crisis-proof and indispensable again this autumn. The drainpipe is still required as a contrast to longer or looser tops. In addition, casual "boyfriend" styles that can also be 7/8-length are establishing themselves. Shortened, slender trousers of other fabrics and often chequered also play an important role, while wide pleated trousers charm their way into the lines. With white blouses, roll-necks or cardigans, they morph between classic and modern.

Pea coats, duffle coats and Barbour styles - also pari of this league - lend a touch of indigenous British nobility. Military-style coats and down-lined parkas place decorative functionality in the foreground.

Boots retain their Status as indispensable accessories in this autumn season. For the first time in several seasons, soft suede is again a highlight. Light and medium nature-like colours and soft, crumpled shafts take the edge off of the boots that was so popular in past seasons.

Suede also breathes new life into bags, which have lost their cult Status among the accessories. Original, expressive jewellery is a new topic on the fashion agenda for the autumn/winter season 2009/2010.

the swiss label

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