CONTENTS
 

Impressum

Vol.10  Issue 08/03, 06.08.2010

Gaspard Yurkievich Collection F/W 2010

Wistful Thinking

Gaspard Yurkievich is reaffirming its identity: a style at once glamorous and urban sensible yet extremely modern, and anchored in the history of Parisian elegance. The Winter 2010-2011 collection is a perfect example.

The title, a play on words evoking nostalgia and melancholy while remaining seductive, echoes the autumnal, yet candid and severe, colors. Fawn, tobacco, rich browns and golds, blue-green, moss green and orange spice up the ensemble like rays of light.

A microfiber Ottoman theme accentuates the colors' impact while adding a technical aspect to the ultra-feminine forms. Jackets, skirts, mini-shorts, dresses, and trench coats and even the Shorts jumpsuit are all basque designs. The juliet sleeves are quite narrow, with fold details at the head of the sleeve offering the ensemble its structure.

The collection proposes a large selection of tailored suits with extremely feminine cuts, which are presented in a subtle houndstooth wool gabardine, moss-colored Jacquard as well as the traditional black gabardine tuxedo.

The silhouettes in crepe embossed with dots, which for some looks is all-over, offers the collection a certain rhythm. The agitated print, like a liberty, is used for jumpsuits and trousers. These are modern versions of the evening-wear jodhpur with godets and pleats.

Fur is used in delicate and experimental touches: down vests in silver grey or brown-gold Swakara astrakhan, earrings evoking a feather yet constructed in fox, a trench coat with gradually faded mink sleeves and necklaces in palomino mink.

The obscurity and transparency of the muslin add to the collection the sensuality of shirred and draped dresses knotted around the waist. The shades are skin-toned or black, associated with brown-gold lame, while the forms are light and flowing, blazing with a bare back.

An embroidered assembly of brushed black, gold and silver sequins emphasizes the destructured work and artistry. The shoes mix classical leathers in contrasting colors, creating a bold and daring combination. There are grained, patent or croco-embossed leathers in warm winter tones: brown, fawn and tobacco enlivened with touches of a bright rose print or violet calf-skin suede.

The Gaspard Yurkievich for Eastpak bags, borrowed from the men's collection (hip-packs, totes, small inventive pouches), offer a supplementary urban touch. As custom has it, Dani Siciliano puts her musical signature on the show by recording the runway models' voices and mixing the sample "Outstanding" by The Gap Band.

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