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Vol.13 Issue 07/01, 11.07.2013 |
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Photos : Copyright © 2013, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. Text: PR
Impressions Pret-A-Porter S/S 2013 Part 8Collection Paco Rabanne & Talbot Runhof
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Paco Rabanne Collection S/S 2013 At the outset, Lydia Maurer was captivated by the history and the magic of this House. What sparked such emotion? After total immersion inside the archives, she notices freewheeling seductive dancing girls that Paco Rabanne really fancied. These spectacular dresses created on the living silhouette in keeping with the movement of the woman wearing them. This exacting work of materials that mingles hand and technique, noble or ordinary weaving along with architectural, Grafted and experimental metal. Such is the Paco Rabanne rhythm, rebel and powerful. For her first collection, the Artistic Director defines the Paco Rabanne woman. Today's woman, who sets forth the eroticism of Marisa Berenson and Anita Pallenberg, two leading muses of the House with undeniable modernity. Lydia Maurer nurtures her imagination with photographs by Guy Bourdin, compressions by Cesar, the "Girlfriends" of Richard Prince, "Nudes" by Jean Clemmer, and the bewitching magic of the Doors.
Behind the Seventies influence, appear the reminiscences of an eternal silhouette, the one created
by Paco Rabanne. It distills his obsessions and remarkable cuts for a renewed wardrobe where jackets,
coats, pants and accessories complete the iconic wardrobe. The "kite" constructions of clothing freely
inspired by the sketches of Paco Rabanne produced during his architectural studies in 1959. There are
also these faceted signature shoulders, these dresses with geometric constructions, these cut-outs that show off skin.
Finally, more than a signature, a declaration, the "69" disc stems from many diversions: reinterpreted
in supple and poetic guipure, battered and hammered, embossed on technical silk, recreated in folded silicone
and deformed into an exotic flower. Pure object of desire, this Paco Rabanne collection elevates the accessory to the rank of troubling body adornments. High-thigh sandals with interlaced leather straps softly overlap the leg. Signed by the artist Taher Chemerik, jewelry pieces in transparent bubbles cover up the ears; in welding torch metal, they wrap around the arm. A precious assembly of ordinary materials, brass and plastic, cover up the bust with a sensual armor. The "69" shoulder bags of this Spring-Summer season always convey a totally desirable feeling, while showcasing more functional details- lined, zipped and lighter-created for a Rabanne woman in keeping with her times.
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Talbot Runhof Collection S/S 2013
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Copyright © 2013, fashionfreak. All rights reserved. ISSN 1619-5779