Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2013 Part 3

CONTENTS
Impressum	Vol.13 Issue 12/01, 10.12.2013

Impressions Haute Couture F/W 2013 Part 3

Collection Ulyana Sergeenko, Julien Fourniè

HC F/W 2013

Ulyana Sergeenko Collection F/W 2013

A storyteller at heart, Ulyana Sergeenko lets her imagination unfold sinuously as she turns stories into dresses, layering memories and impressions into a fantasy world full of uniquely idiosyncratic associations. Like a story stemming from another story, silhouettes and shapes follow purely narrative whims. For her third couture collection, Ulyana was inspired by "Russian Gothic". The imaginary subject offered the key to a fantastic journey into the unknown, where beauty and fantasy free their metamorphic and uplifting powers. Recalling the fairy tales her grandmother would retell to her at night, Ulyana imagined magnificent stories of ancient heroes, Russian beauties, Tsars and Princesses. Hers is a tale of femininity and love set in Russian forests and landscapes.

The protagonist of the collection is a sleeping beauty woken by the kiss of a Prince. Ulyana captures the moment of the awakening, its pure magic born from a true feeling. On the catwalk, the rite of passage is expressed by a mirror. As each character crosses the threshold it comes alive, leaving the imaginary world to join the real one. The same enchanted simplicity characterizes the dresses, which retain the modest yet solemn femininity of the traditional Russian sarafan.

The silhouettes either long or short, are sensual yet strict with a high waist and neckline. The sculptural contours pay homage to the curves and bells of Russian church architecture. Elongated sleeves and capes morphing into dresses create a Medieval tone, while cocoon shapes take inspiration from the Sarafan's inner wear and shirts.

Apparent modesty hides remarkable preciousness. Like an icon kept in a mansion's most private place, similarly river pearls and corals are used for cross stitching embroidery, embroidery features inside the sleeves hidden under a layer of organza, and elaborate pleating and smocking give shape to long dresses. A labor of love, intricate craft adds a sentimental element that draws its uniqueness from folkloric traditions; handmade Vologda lace, embroidery with golden cannetille and Krestetsk hand embroidery. Sight and touch are constantly stimulated such as with a hand embroidered cape made of shaved beaver and carpet hand embroidery giving a moss texture to bags:

The color palette is narrative and atmospheric. Dark shades of brown, beige, green and charcoal suddenly open up into bursts of bright red, coral, green, and gold, like twilight in a forest or a Russian wooden house protecting and preserving brightness for its most sacred part; where icons are kept. Cut crystals decorated with semiprecious stones are used for broaches and earrings. Accessories also include gold rings worn in clusters on hands, small kokoshnik hats, embroidered purses, mittens and stocking boots.

Ulyana Sergeenko captures the magic of awakenings and change, expressing both the enchantment of storytelling and the narrative power of couture.

HC F/W 2013